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Стиль вне времени — мода 50 — х годов XX века

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Стиль вне времени — мода 50 — х годов XX века

50-е годы ХХ века стали последним великим десятилетием Высокой моды. В их стиле была максимальная концентрация вкуса, изящества и красоты в нарядах.

Кристиан Диор

В 1947 году свершилась «модная революция»: всем известный кутюрье французского дома моды, названного в его честь, – Кристиан Диор представил публике свою первую коллекцию. После долгой и страшной войны Кристиану удалось вернуть женскому образу изящество и элегантность. Диор создает совершенно новую концепцию – «New Look». Это была «романтическая линия». В этой коллекции кутюрье воплотил собственное представление о женственности, которой так не хватало в эпоху войны с её форменной одеждой и «трудовой повинностью» для женщин.

Публика осталась в восторге от идей Диора, и очень быстро стиль «New Look» обрел невероятную популярность, став эталоном красоты и элегантности на грядущие годы. Через несколько лет направление «New Look» уже стало само собой разумеющимся. Оно воспринималось как обещание благополучия, жизнерадостности, элегантности, служило стимулом к развитию.

Юбер де Живанши

В 1952 Юбер де Живанши открыл собственный французский дом моды своего имени. На тот момент он был самым молодым из творцов высокой моды.

Первая коллекция кутюрье имела успех, возможно благодаря тому, что его «лицом компании» стала манекенщица Беттина Грациани. Для неё он создал блузку «Беттина» — скромную хлопчатобумажную белую блузку с черно — белыми воланами на рукавах.

Маэстро никогда не жертвовал эстетикой и руководствовался только собственным вкусом и стилем, а его творения чудесно умели рассказать историю моды тех лет. Конечно же, главной музой дизайнера долгие годы была актриса Одри Хепберн.

Хепберн стала близким другом Живанши и впредь одевалась только у него как в жизни, так и в кино, также участвовала в показах его коллекций. Их сотрудничество началось с фильма «Сабрина» (1954). Фильмы «Забавная мордашка» (1957), «Завтрак у Тиффани» (1961) и «Как украсть миллион» (1966), где актриса снималась в нарядах «от Живанши», стали символом утончённой элегантности того времени.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Кристобаль Баленсиага

Конец 1940 — х и 1950 — е годы историки моды иногда называют «эрой Баленсиаги». Уроженец Испании  стал еще одним великим дизайнером того времени. Он был одним из немногих кутюрье, имевших практический опыт изготовления одежды, и стремился достичь совершенства в каждом стежке и шве. Баленсиага создавал одежду, напоминающую произведения искусства. Его наряды не требовали специального белья, корректирующего фигуру, из — за чего они были очень комфортны. Костюм от Баленсиага с круглым воротником и слегка приталенное платье — туника без пояса определили стиль женской одежды на всю вторую половину ХХ века.

В 50 — е годы кутюрье французского дома создал то, что впоследствии многократно использовалось в модном дизайне: узкий прямой силуэт в форме буквы I, платья — бочки, пальто — каре, свободные жакеты с огромными капюшонами, платья — трапеции, шляпы — коробочки, «летящие» полупальто без пуговиц и воротника. В 1945 году ввёл в женскую одежду квадратные плечи, а в 1951 году — одежду с открытыми шеей и плечами. В 1960 году придумал платье — мешок, которое впоследствии было скопировано многими другими дизайнерами (хотя некоторые читают, что первым платье подобного кроя придумал Юбер де Живанши).

Иконы

Иконами стиля в 50 — е годы были Одри Хепберн, Бриджит Бардо, Мэрилин Монро, Грейс Келли, Софи Лорен.

Безусловно, эпоха 50-х годов XX века — одна из самых элегантных и женственных. Говорят, что мода циклична и всегда возвращается. Возможно, такую моду хоть желал бы увидеть на улицах городов мира каждый современный человек.

 

 

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